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10/11/2005
When you write about Boston, and you will, be kind.
To Julia's account of our Boston weekend, I would like to contribute some specifics.
But first, if you offered suggestions on what we might do while we were in town, I thank you. If you offered to meet us and show us the sights in person, I thank you and wish we had accepted. You, however, should thank your lucky motherfucking stars, because Boston had it in for us, and I can't promise you would have emerged unscathed.
4:30 PM. I arrive at South Station brimming with excitement and verve. I exuberantly toss my stylish tam-o'-shanter in the air. Full of fresh-faced pioneerism, undaunted by the weight of my suitcase and undeterred by the dangerous clink of the liquor bottles within, I decide to take the subway to our hotel instead of a cab.
5:15 PM. Eleven flights of stairs and fourteen thousand lurching steps later, I arrive at the hotel, panting, sweating, and in possession of several brand-new blisters on my dainty doll-like feet. I note with approval the convenient proximity to "Boston's Home for Erotic Cakes, Sweets, and Novelties." I check in, go up to our suite, and immediately mark my territory by rubbing my scent glands on every obvious protuberance urinating copiously in a corner arranging the liquor bottles just so on top of the TV.
5:45 PM. A knock on the door heralds the arrival of Julia. I greet her seductively at the door swathed only in Saran Wrap, Marabel Morgan-style. I remember my mangy patches of unsightly freezer burn too late to conceal them. "Do not," she tells me through gritted teeth, "even mention the baseball game."
6:00 PM. We sally forth in a quest Spring, Emily, and Anne swore we would not regret: the quest for a chacarero.
6:55 PM. After a cab driver who did not know where Filene's was and politely suggested we get out of his car; a hotel valet who directed us not to Filene's but to Lord and Taylor; a long walk and some wrong turns; and a confusing set of directions from a woman who appeared to be sending us to South America to get an authentic Chilean sandwich, we do, in fact, regret our quest.
7:45 PM. The search for a restaurant that serves an appropriate caliber of both food and liquor finds us finally at a steakhouse. Our waiter repeatedly rests his hands on the back of Julia's chair and vibrates aggressively. "You've been Magic Fingered," I tell her solemnly. She brains me with a half-empty wine bottle, carefully, so as not to spill a single drop.
9:00 PM. I stand at the end of the meal, and quickly realize there is no way I'm making it anywhere on foot. My blisters have blossomed into weeping open sores, and with every step my shoes seem to tighten even further. I hobble to the door; outside the restaurant I immediately whip off my shoes. Barefoot, I tread carefully back to the hotel. I do not step on any glass or used needles, and, having dodged those more alarming hazards, I shove to the back of my mind my mild apprehension about stepping into a pool of, you know, urine or the dripping clap.
9:30 PM. I take the only photo of the weekend, a close-up of my chewed and bloody heel. Replacing my shredded Band-Aids with new ones, donning a different pair of shoes, and taking a strictly medicinal belt from my travel-sized bottle of vodka, I am once again ready to take on the town.
10:00 PM. No more than pleasantly tipsy, we arrive at Jacob Wirth's, as Cris suggested, to humiliate ourselves at the promised drunken piano bar sing-along. Upon entering, we notice two unsettling things: the lights are all on, and the liquor bottles have been carefully covered with a drift of Saran Wrap, Marabel Morgan-style. Julia wonders aloud if they've stopped serving. Nonsense, I opine, insisting that the booze has simply been carefully wrapped to keep it fresh and moist.
10:02 PM. Julia was right. We leave in high dudgeon what kind of bar...? unable to believe ...ten o'clock?! that they expected us to stay there and sing in public unobscured by darkness and sober. I try not to let my disappointment show, but in fact it did cost me great effort to memorize the lyrics to "Wildfire" and I am devastated not to be able to strut my pony-chasin' stuff.
11:00 PM. After Julia charms the figurative pants off a stern-looking bouncer outside a club we are far too matronly to enter sorry, a club I am far too matronly to enter we learn that there's a bar just a block down the street that is "grungy." That is more my speed, and as Julia genteelly nurses a beer I bolt down more vodka, barely pausing to chew it.
12:00 AM: We agree it is time to return to our hotel, where we may don our nighties, tuck up our hair in pin curls, and engage in a rollicking pillow fight. Or alternatively, we might put on baggy sweats, drink everything in the suite but the mouthwash, and talk. And talk. About everyone we know and many we don't. (Yes, whoever you are, we talk about you.) Which we do until 3:30.
After I tell her a story, Julia accuses me in a bored drawl of sucking all the life out of it. I attempt to beat her mercilessly with an empty bottle, but since it is a Lilliputian bottle from the mini-bar, I succeed in delivering only very small bruises and the most adorable wee tiny skull fracture. In revenge, Julia offers me a mint, into which I bite unwittingly; she cackles like a...um, great cackling thing as minty confectionery semen runs down my chin.
Since every great evening should end with either a drunken brawl or someone dripping something, I will now draw the veil across Friday, except to say that Julia slept here while I slept here.
Saturday
10:00 AM. Last night a room service breakfast delivered at 10 seemed a decadence that bordered on Caligulan. This morning, it seems sadistic. However, determined to soldier on brightly, I pop some Tylenol, chug some water, and tuck into my eggs-over-easy-side-of-bacon-white-toast while Julia watches from the sofa, looking vaguely ill.
10:30 AM. Julia has taken to her bed. Without showering, I put on last night's clothes. This is not as revolting a prospect as it would be if we'd actually managed to get a good drunk on; as it is, they reek not a whit. I wrench my feet into shoes, gasping at the pain, and venture out in search of a Coca-Cola for Julia she calls it that! A Coca-Cola! and less excruciating footwear for myself.
11:30 AM. I return, more or less triumphal, bearing a frosty beverage, an extensive supply of adhesive bandages, and a pair of pearlescent pink flip-flops (cost: $18 and a half-mile of walking). Julia sucks down her Coca-Cola with unladylike dispatch, I shower and apply unguents to my suppurating sores, and we eventually embark again, our determination to conquer Boston somewhat renewed.
1:00 PM. We do not, in fact, conquer Boston. It is worth noting that flip-flops are not the ideal footwear for exploring a city during a chilly rainstorm. With every step my feet steep longer in the toxic gumbo excuse me, poisonous chowder of the overflowing gutter.
2:30 PM. Drenched, embittered, and hungry, we settle on lunch at an Asian restaurant mere steps from our hotel.
4:00 PM. Suddenly we realize it is not, in fact, too early to start drinking, and beat a hasty path back to our room, where the wine and conversation flow.
7:00 PM. We change our clothes do these pink rubber flip-flops go with my tiara and ball gown? and strike out in search of dinner. Our destination is Meritage, recommended by T. I give our cab driver a very specific address, practically including GPS coordinates, and encourage him to talk volubly about baseball, causing Julia to stop speaking to me entirely, her patrician face stony in profile.
7:25 PM. As the frigid downpour continues, we are dropped off in what our cab driver promises is the vicinity of our restaurant. Huddling in a doorway, I call the restaurant to get directions, expecting to be told that we need only turn twice to the left, take two baby steps forward, and one giant scissor step to the north. Instead, I am told that it's "only" a 15-20 minute walk away. "Do you have an umbrella?" the solicitous gentleman asks. "No," I answer grimly. "Well, you need one," he says. I end the call and resolve to have him flayed upon our eventual arrival at the restaurant.
7:45 PM. Julia and I have headed off into the driving rain in, of course, the wrong direction. As I slog through puddle after puddle in my rubber sandals, I am certain I am contracting cholera. Julia is wrapped up in her pashmina looking like a debased Mary Magdalen. We are laughing. And laughing. We finally manage to signal a sympathetic cab driver, one I do not goad into speaking of baseball, who deposits us at last at our correct destination.
9:30 PM. We are between courses, irritated by the indifference of our waiter. Apparently he believes that pink plastic shoes are footwear for only the lower orders, and that the hair pasted flat to my skull by the rain is a sign of a general disregard for grooming. (Hey, he's got me on that one.) He blooms, however, into servility when I ask him where the ladies' room is. "Will you come with me?" he asks, spreading his arms in what appears to be a welcoming embrace, looking for all the world like he wants to heft me over his shoulder and bear me there himself. My imagination quails from thoughts of what other services he might perform once there. Instead, I ask politely, "Could you perhaps just tell me?" He does. Julia isn't listening, but then she'll have no need to know; she has already wet herself laughing.
11:00 PM. Finished with dinner, we trudge downstairs to the hotel bar. We are there for an hour and yet, when we get into a cab to go back to the Eliot, we are both as sober as alewives. (I know. I know. That's a fish. But as far as I know they don't tipple.)
11:30 PM. We are back in our sweats, dry at long last, and have tucked in to the remains of this afternoon's demi bouteille. I have bathed my feet and my gullet in vodka. We vow that we will never, but never take on Boston together again. Honest and unashamed in our defeat, we readily admit Boston has kicked our collective flip-flopped ass.
And so eventually to bed, not as drunk or as late as last night, since I'll be up early to rendezvous with Paul and Charlie.
Sunday
8:00 AM. The alarm clock next to my bed goes off. I shower, re-anoint my blisters, and pack my suitcase before venturing quietly into the living room of our suite. I pass through the French doors and creep towards Julia's bed to say goodbye or gudbi, as Patrick would have it before departing. I say her name, but she sleeps on. She looks so peaceful in her zippered footie pajamas, satin-edged blankie clutched to her pinkened cheek, her thumb having slipped wetly out of her slack mouth. I watch her for a moment, then leave a single red rose on her pillow. Then I slip silently out of her life forever.
So there you have it. I could overlook the part about being cold and drenched to the bone. I could even forgive the ostentatious snubs from cab drivers and maitres d' alike. But when two such accomplished lushes as Julia and I can't even get intoxicated...well, Boston is now off the list.
And yet: I had a marvelous time. I attribute that entirely to Julia's crackling wit and my own drive to seem, you know, cool enough so that she wouldn't slip away while I was in the bathroom, leaving me with the bill. I am fairly certain my feet have turned gangrenous red streaks are bad, right? And yet. If it comes to amputation, I'll count it all worthwhile.
Posted by Julie at 11:56 AM in You can pick your friends... | Permalink
Comments (64)
Holy shit, Julie! What the hell have you done with your feet?!
Cute shoes, though.
And very jealous of your divine weekend.
Posted by: Molly at Oct 12, 2005 11:23:22 AM
Holy cow - that picture of your foot is unreal! I would have insisted that Julie carry me around the rest of the weekend.
Posted by: Lucy at Oct 12, 2005 11:42:31 AM
Forget Julia, *I* peed myself laughing. I may never have need of a toliet again :) God, I love your humor.
BTW--We lowely internets are DYING for a Charlie update---is he crawling now? Sitting at long last? Reaching for the keys to the liquor cabinet? Planning for the strippers and kegs for his first birthday party?
Posted by: wavybrains at Oct 12, 2005 11:43:41 AM
You just kill me! How you come up with such detail is beyond me... That story- written by me would have been all of a paragraph... you are amazing.
Posted by: KAtie at Oct 12, 2005 11:59:07 AM
A more rousing account of a Bostonian weekend was never told. Thanks for the hilarity this morning!
Posted by: Amyesq at Oct 12, 2005 12:21:25 PM
I was there with you! I was there with you! No dammit, I wasn't. It's just your amazing writing that makes me feel that way - that,and the blood dripping off the screen heel onto my lap here. How cool is it that you have what looks like a labryinth on your shoes????
Posted by: Sandy at Oct 12, 2005 12:23:47 PM
Hee. I spent one of the worst years of my life in Boston (and there's some tough competition for that title). There were a lot of reasons for the badness that were not directly related to Boston, but I always thought there was something... malevolent about that city.
Posted by: reprogirl at Oct 12, 2005 12:27:12 PM
Oh my, your heel looks like it hurts. Hope it feels better soon. I'm sure most of us, though, can relate.
Also, getting lost in Boston in the rain sounds about as bad as getting lost in Chicago when it is 2 degrees outside. I have much sympathy for you, but am glad that you still managed to have a good time despite all the wrong turns and rain.
Posted by: Jessie at Oct 12, 2005 12:28:30 PM
I'm sorry our city was less than kind to you, Julie - but at least you got a great story out of it!
Posted by: shanna at Oct 12, 2005 12:35:18 PM
Tales like that are always better in the retelling, makes it almost worth the misery.
Sounds like ya'll had a blast in spite of everything.
Posted by: Debe at Oct 12, 2005 12:39:33 PM
I'm utterly impressed that you put your shoes back on after looking at that picture. I came somewhat close to that at cheerleading camp with a new pair of Keds. (hint: never wear a new pair of Keds at cheerleading camp) I had no choice but to put them back on, but my white socks were never the same since. Even though the city left much to be desired, I'm glad you and Julia had a good time anyway.
I do wonder why the waiter wanted to show you the way to the bathroom himself...do you think he was going to try to shove you out the back door? And throw your flip-flops after you?
Posted by: reenie at Oct 12, 2005 1:10:28 PM
Oh man. I'm totally jealous! What fun. You should come to my city next. I KNOW you can get wasted here--lord knows I did it every day for 15 years.
Posted by: Cecily at Oct 12, 2005 1:17:44 PM
"...but in fact it did cost me great effort to memorize the lyrics to "Wildfire" and I am devastated not to be able to strut my pony-chasin' stuff."
I heard this song for the very first time this morning and complained the whole time my husband sang along with reckless abandon, refusing to change the radio station. I now know I HAD to hear it to get your reference. I no longer hate him.
Posted by: Amy at Oct 12, 2005 1:28:27 PM
Oh my! You guys did have a rough time!!! If you ever end up in Philadelphia, let me know. I know some great places to get intoxicated.
And I hope you didn't say anything too bad about me!
Posted by: Heather at Oct 12, 2005 1:37:48 PM
You are an amazing story teller. I loved every word - even loved the bloody wounded heel pic. Sorry that Boston gave you the finger, but glad you two had fun anyhow. Take care.
Posted by: Mary-Mia at Oct 12, 2005 1:40:27 PM
Do you not know of Dr. Scholl's moleskin? http://www.drscholls.com/product.aspx?prodid=52 Most drugstores in my neck of the woods carry it.
It is salvation for blister-prone people. I do not travel anywhere without my moleskin and a small pair of safety scissors to cut it. Since you already had a horrendous open wound, you could have applied your bandaids, covered those with moleskin (the padded version) and gotten back into your party shoes.
Sorry for the commercial, but I have undying gratitude for the person who turned me on to moleskin, as well as blister free socks (not quite as versatile).
Posted by: Betty at Oct 12, 2005 2:08:09 PM
Ive been reading your journal for a few weeks now and have almost read it all. I love your hounour also. I have a very close friend who has suffered a stillbirth and is currently waiting to miscarry her 2nd pg after being told its failed after a scan. She sounds very similar to you in the way she copes and her sense of humour and strength which is why i think im drawn to you. I also think im very similar to you in the alcoholic/debauched youth type way.
love Kelly from Wales UK
Posted by: Kelly at Oct 12, 2005 2:12:46 PM
Ah yes, the erotic cake store. Makes me almost miss Boston.
One time I had a cabbie in Boston drive me around for an hour before finally admitting that he had no idea where the street was that I wanted.
Another time while sitting in a taxi at a red light by Boston Common two FBI agents comandeered my cab and loaded two giant black garbage bags into the trunk. The bags had some odd looking tubes protruding from them. Thought for a moment I was being Punked.
Hmm. Maybe I don't miss Boston.
Posted by: Jess at Oct 12, 2005 2:27:22 PM
The sight of your bloody heel made me physically ill.
Awesome.
Posted by: Shanna at Oct 12, 2005 2:48:45 PM
Yes, come to think of it, I did have a few experiences in Boston that captured the spirit of "if you don't already know where you're going, I can't be bothered to help you find it, really; if I do give you directions, they will be hopelessly obtuse and muddled and get you more lost. Let's just suffice it to say, 'You can't get there from here.'"
Glad you gals made tequila out of your cactuses, but man, I have to say I'm glad I wasn't there in the distillery with y'all.
xo
Posted by: Mollie at Oct 12, 2005 2:57:47 PM
For future reference? It's a piece of cake to get trashed in DC. ;)
Posted by: jen at Oct 12, 2005 3:06:49 PM
I don't know that I've ever been so glad to live in a mid-sized midwestern city. Because here, you can get as drunk as you'd like, any day of the week. At least you had stellar company.
Posted by: Ally at Oct 12, 2005 3:57:56 PM
Boston sucks. The only thing worse than visiting there is living there. Have your next bad girl getaway in Seattle. Our bars don't close at 10:15. And the cabbies will take you where you want to go.
Posted by: Molly (the other one) at Oct 12, 2005 4:04:23 PM
Those shoes look like the shoes I buy - everyone says "ooh, they look comfortable" (translation: they look flat and/or ugly) and then they rip my feet apart.
Posted by: katie at Oct 12, 2005 4:44:48 PM
Wow! Those are great shoes in the picture!
Posted by: Scully at Oct 12, 2005 4:53:29 PM
The problem with Boston cabdrivers (and Boston drivers in general) - OK, just one of the problems; they have a lot - is that the city is incredibly confusing to navigate AND NO ONE CARRIES A FUCKING MAP IN THEIR CAR! While it may be a myth that the city streets were laid out based on meandering cow paths, it sure feels that way, what with some streets changing their names every few blocks if you go straight, while other streets turn corner after corner while steadfastly refusing to change their name.
After living most of my life in NYC, where the vast majority of streets are considerately laid out in a numbered grid, it was very difficult to adjust to. We give very precise and detailed directions to anyone coming to our house, because it is admittedly difficult to find, and yet it is the locals who get lost most often, because they THINK they know their way around, BUT THEY DON'T. And, as I may have mentioned earlier, THEY DON'T CARRY MAPS IN THEIR CARS.
But I do love it here, and I wish you had called. I could have ferried you around, and not gotten especially lost, because I always carry a map, and I'm not afraid to use it.
Posted by: Andi at Oct 12, 2005 4:55:50 PM
red streaks = go to doctor.
Posted by: d at Oct 12, 2005 6:03:04 PM
I'm not convinced you didn't purchase that foot photo at Sweet n' Nasty.
Posted by: Hissy Cat at Oct 12, 2005 6:40:11 PM
I can vouch for the accuracy of the foot pictures.
Meanwhile, Charlie has decided that yogic flying will be his preferred mode of locomotion. Either that or he will be carried by some cooperative animal. To help him develop his beastmaster psychic powers (and to keep him clean with a minimum of fuss), I let him stay in a kennel with a couple of dogs for the weekend. He did not, however, learn to bark.
I am very disappointed.
Posted by: paul at Oct 12, 2005 7:32:31 PM
Oh! I am so glad y'all liked Meritage! And also, strangely honored that y'all ate there at my recommendation. I hope it was wonderful.
Posted by: T at Oct 12, 2005 7:55:46 PM
Next time -- if there should be a next time -- the bar at Chez Henri in Cambridge serves Cuban sandwiches (not Chilean, but indoors and easy to find), and I've successfully gotten drunk there any number of times.
As for yogic flying, I once lived down the street from a TM house, and they never shoveled their snow. Now I know why.
Posted by: redrhino at Oct 12, 2005 8:13:22 PM
I grew up in the Boston area. I've lived in Maine, Chicago, southern Indiana. I feel at home here. These are my people. There are a few things that are undeniably true:
Cabs in Boston SUCK
People in Boston, in general, are rude and intolerant.
Even those of us who have lived here for the better part of 40 years get lost - with the big dig eveything has changed - as they say in Maine - someties you just can't get there from here.
Next time, take the T from South Station to Park - then switch to the green line - don't walk across Boston in sassy shoes! :)
Posted by: Bridget at Oct 12, 2005 8:29:31 PM
after reading 31+ comments from people mostly pooping on my hometown, all i can say is: now you know why a bunch of us locals offered to personally show you around.
parenthetically, never take Bostonian recommendations from someone who says "y'all."
Posted by: andrea at Oct 12, 2005 8:44:13 PM
Mmmmm... erotic cakes...
Posted by: tracy at Oct 12, 2005 9:33:34 PM
onlyc4 words.
1. hysterical
2,3,&4. Maryland next time
Posted by: Amber at Oct 12, 2005 10:05:53 PM
so sorry about boston's suckitude and your bloody heel. but i want those shoes. can i have them?
Posted by: carmie at Oct 12, 2005 11:50:23 PM
Come to Vegas. Our bars never close. And if you know what brightly lit casino your destination is near, all you have to do is look across the horizon for directions.
I've done that shoe thing. In Hawaii. On the very first night of a one week trip. I spent most of it drunk at the Hilton Hawaiian Village beach bar. I now only vaguely remember the pain, but I do remember the lovely sunsets and the great drinks. At least good company makes a painful trip fun.
Posted by: FlippyO at Oct 13, 2005 12:02:22 AM
Andrea is right. Think of navigating Boston as finding the Isla de la Muerta. Your best bet is to try to win over one of the natives (you did pack shiny trinkets, right?).
Sorry your experience in my fair city wasn't how you planned, Julie. It sounds like you made the best of it and had some fun in spite of it all. Except for the heel. The heel does not look/sound good.
Posted by: LindseyL at Oct 13, 2005 9:31:56 AM
Even your hamburger-like feet can't keep me from being insanely jealous of your child free, booze soaked weekend.
Posted by: karla at Oct 13, 2005 10:13:33 AM
Damn, woman -- I don't care how cute they are . . . stay away from carnivorous shoes!
Posted by: Stacey at Oct 13, 2005 12:02:09 PM
That can't really be your foot. You made that in Photo Shop, right? Ugh. That looks painful. ::shudder::
OTOH, I'm glad to hear you got to hang out with Julia and rot your liver a little. You'll forget the bad stuff (most of it, anyway) and ALWAYS remember the good/funny stuff.
Welcome home. We missed you!
Posted by: Dani at Oct 13, 2005 12:19:07 PM
Yes, Bostonians are rude but for some reason they don’t expect you to be rude in return. I have found, after living in Boston for 8 years, that foul language works surprisingly well!
Posted by: Hazel at Oct 13, 2005 12:37:56 PM
Yowsa your poor heel! Just de-lurking to say that your blog cracks me up!
Posted by: kirsten at Oct 13, 2005 12:54:41 PM
hola como estas lei tu nota en selecciones y me intereso mucho porque yo tengo problemas para poder tener familia pero desgraciadamente no entiendo lo de tu correo porque esta en ingles ojala tu puedas mandarme tus notas en espanol para poder comunicarme contigo y contarte mis problemas asta pronto y suerte
Posted by: juana jimenez murillo at Oct 13, 2005 1:47:44 PM
Well, you picked the absolutely worst weekend since July to come to our fair city (well, maybe except for this one coming up). We had no rain for 90 days and then Julie shows up and - le deluge.
I'm sorry for your heel and all the misadventures. But REALLY, there are many many better bars to go to then Jabob Wirths! I think only tourists go there and since it was raining, none were around so they closed it! And yes, the chacareros are good, but worth going across town at rush hour on Friday? Not really.
Yes, Boston cabdrivers are pretty pathetic, and next to impossible to get in the rain. But you have to give us another shot - maybe next September when the weather is guaranteed to be gorgeous, Indian Summer. Unless you do actually come, in which case there will undoubtedly be a category 3 hurricane barreling up the east coast.
At least my hotel recommendation was good!
Posted by: Mary at Oct 13, 2005 1:51:39 PM
Julie, you wrote a note in Selecciones?
Posted by: Monique at Oct 13, 2005 2:18:22 PM
Tea & sympathy on a Bostonian afternoon, huh? Ya'll are a hoot.
Posted by: Shelley at Oct 13, 2005 2:53:45 PM
"parenthetically, never take Bostonian recommendations from someone who says 'y'all.'"
Wow! That's harsh. Now I'm REALLY looking forward to my trip to Boston next week!
Us dumb hicks dow-un heyuh in Atlanta jes' don' know nothin 'bout eatin' at no fancy dinin' holes.
Posted by: T at Oct 13, 2005 2:59:20 PM
Holy shit! I almost peed myself laughing at this. Especially the part about her braining you with the half-empty wine bottle "carefully, so as not to spill a single drop." I'm glad you gals had fun in spite of the obstacles. Now, go apply some neosporin, or iodine, or turpentine to those feet! Also, kudos to Paul on his parenting skills--while Charlie may have failed in the barking department, at least he didn't let him CATCH HIS DEATH, as Steve apparently did with Patrick.
Posted by: RachelH at Oct 13, 2005 3:10:45 PM
OK. The blisters? OUCH! The flip-flops? A riot! Boston? Had me crying with laughter... My recent trip to Boston was not as horrible, but not nearly as entertaining to read about either. Thanks for having the perfect experience that made us all laugh our asses off.
Posted by: Amnesia at Oct 13, 2005 5:31:45 PM

