Strippy handbag

These instructions are for a lined strippy-looking handbag bag that ends up measuring approximately 11" W x 9" D. You can vary the size of your bag by altering the dimensions of your rectangles in step 1. I like the sides of my bags to be tapered, but you could cut yours straight instead. And my bag has fabric tie closures and purchased handles, but you can also improvise on those, as well — this tutorial is for a technique and not a particular pattern.

Materials:

• 1 fat quarter (18" x 22") of fabric for the bag's lining
• Either 6 fat quarters of coordinating prints, which will yield enough strips for two bags, or an assortment of strips measuring at least 2" x 13"
• A 14" x 22" piece of muslin or scrap fabric — this will not show on your finished bag, so it's a good use for ugly fabric you want to get rid of
• A 12" x 22" piece of fusible fleece (Pellon, for example)
• Two 6" x 12" pieces of fabric and one similarly sized piece of interfacing for optional interior pockets
• Purchased handles (with removable hardware if you want to do it the easy way, or with fixed hardware if you want to invent some new swear words)

Directions:

1. Following manufacturer's directions, apply a 12 x 22" piece of fusible fleece to a 14 x 24" piece of muslin or scrap fabric. Draw a line down the center of the fleece. On either side of the center, draw lines every 3". (These aren't sewing or placement lines; they're just there as a visual guide to help you keep your strips straight as you work.)
2. If you're using fat quarters, stack them and cut strips measuring 2 x 13" until you have 24 strips total. (You can vary the strip width like I did in the photo if you'd like to give your bag more visual interest, or you can just do it on the fly as I describe below.) If you're using scraps or pre-cut strips, just hack them off at 13".
3. Centering it on the center line you drew, place one strip right side up and pin. This strip will be the bottom of your bag, so you might want to make it a dark color.
4. Place your next strip on top of the center strip, right sides together, edges aligned. Sew a 1/4" seam.
5. If you're a seat-of-the-pants type and would like to vary your strip width spontaneously, you can offset the placement of your strips as you go, still sewing with a 1/4" seam.
6. Every time you sew a strip down, you'll then flip it over and press so that all your strips are facing right side up. Continue adding strips until you get to the end of your muslin/fleece sandwich. Your last strip should overlap the edge of the fleece; you'll trim off the extra fabric later.
7. Now work on the other side, from the center out, once again placing your strips right sides together, lining up the edges (or not, as desired), sewing, flipping, and pressing.
8. When you've covered all the fleece with your strips, fold the sandwich in half and trim it so that it measures 12" W x 11" H.
9. If you want the sides of your bag to have a taper, cut the sides at an angle, so that the top edge measures 12" and the bottom edge measures 10". (I've placed my ruler to show how I angle in by an inch.)
10. Here's what it looks like when those cuts are complete.
11. Cut the bottom corners out of your doubled-over bag. This is what will give you the boxed corners in the finished bag. Measure in 1" square from the bottom corner and mark before cutting.
12. Cut through all layers. (I use scissors.)
13. Open up your sandwich and lay it on top of the fat quarter you've chosen as your lining. Trace around the edges of it directly onto the lining fabric. Cut out the resulting shape. It should match your sandwich exactly.
The next few steps are for including interior pockets. If you don't want pockets, skip to step 21. 14. If you want to put pockets in your bag, cut two 6 x 12" pieces of fabric. (I like to use two contrasting prints.) One piece will be the pocket exterior and one will be the lining. Apply interfacing to the wrong side of the exterior piece.
15. Turn one edge of the pocket lining under 1/4". Do this twice and press.
16. Wrong sides together, snug the top edge of the exterior piece into the turned-over fold of the lining piece. Topstitch.
17. Trim the bottom edge of the pocket exterior to 1/4".
18. Fold this edge over and press.
19. To divide pocket into compartments, mark stitching lines on the pocket at the desired width. Pin your pocket to the lining, lining the bottom turned-under edge of your pocket with the corners you cut out, and stich these lines. Also stitch the bottom of the pocket all the way across, as close to the turned-under edge as you can.
20. Trim off the overlapping sides of the pocket so that it conforms to the shape of the lining. Baste the edges of the pocket to the lining.
21. Next make the handle loops and tie closures for your bag. Using 2" strips of fabric, you'll fold them in half, then fold each half in half again, so that both raw edges are enclosed in a fold. Press. Do this with three strips: 2 matching strips to form the tie closures, and one strip to serve as the handle loops. If you'd prefer to close your bag with a snap or velcro or some other arrangement, now's the time to do it — attach it to the lining and omit the fabric ties.
22. On the two matching strips for the tie closures, also fold one of the short edges so that it's enclosed.
23. Topstitch along both long edges. On the tie closures, make a single unbroken line of stitching, turning the corner around the short edge. This may be difficult because you're sewing through so many thicknesses of fabric, so go slowly. On the strip for the handle loop, you can just sew two separate lines.
24. Cut these strips to length. The ties should each be 9" long. You should cut four 2" pieces for the loops if you are using a handle with detachable hardware. They should be somewhat longer — I used 2 1/2" — if you're using handles with fixed hardware.
25. On the lining of your bag, find the top center of each side and mark it. Measure the spread of your handle and mark the appropriate distance out from the center on each side.
26. Pin your ties and loops on each side. If your handle has detachable hardware, you can baste the loops and ties now.
27. If your handle has fixed hardware, you'll have to baste the loops with the handle in place. From here on out, all pictures will include the handle; if your handle has detachable hardware, your bag will look different during the construction. Like...no handle.
28. Find the bottom center of your lining and cut.
29. With right sides together, using a 1/2" or 5/8" seam — whichever is more comfortable for you — sew up the sides of the lining. Also sew along the bottom of the lining, but leave several inches open; you'll need to turn the bag inside out through this hole so make sure you can get your hand through it. Backstitch at both sides of this opening.
30. Matching the side seam and the bottom seam you just sewed, pinch the corner of your bag shut. (This is difficult to describe!)
31. Butt the seams together and flatten, then pin.
32. Sew across this corner with the same 1/2" or 5/8" seam allowance you used for the sides and bottom.
33. Your lining will now have some shape to it.
34. With your muslin/fleece sandwich right sides together, sew the sides together like you did with the lining. Pinch the corners likewise, and pin and sew.
35. Right sides together, slip the lining inside the sandwich.
36. Matching centers and sides, pin along the top edge. Stitch using your 1/2" or 5/8" seam allowance. (This may be difficult if your handle has fixed hardware; try using a zipper foot if that's the case.)
37. Reaching through the hole in the lining bottom, turn your bag inside out. If you're using fixed-hardware handles, this will be finicky.
38. Pull the lining all the way out, then pin and stitch the opening closed.
39. Topstitch along the edge of the bag. If you've used a handle with detachable hardware, attach it — what are you waiting for?
40. Enjoy your attractive new bag...
41. ...with pockets.

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